Todos Santos

The Captain and the Admiral took the bus to Todos Santos on Saturday morning. We checked into the Hotel Casa Tota, which was quite nice – clean, friendly staff, nice bar and restaurant and none of the cracked cement and rusting rebar look that you often see in Mexico. The hotel had a restored traditional brick fascia in front, with two floors of rooms surrounding courtyard and pool in back. The structure and rooms were made entirely of concrete – done with clean straight lines and all surfaces polished smooth – kind of a Mexican/Scandinavian fusion style of architecture. It looked quite nice.

The bedrooms were also entirely made of cement – floors, walls, ceilings, bed frame and headboard, desk, closet and shower. The only item of furniture was a cube of wood which served as a chair.

We wandered around Todos Santos paying particular attention to the historic district, which features a host of older stucco and brick buildings. They are all restored, attractive and house old inns, art gallaries, shops and restaurants – a Mexican version of Carmel, CA.

We had dinner at a special restaurant, El Refugio Mezcaleria. ERM is special because it serves dishes made with traditional Mexican recipes and only offers a few entrees each night. Not your usual taco, seafood and beans fare. The meal started with a scrumptious plate of gourmet nachos. We had pescado and cameron (fish and shrimp) cooked in a mole sauce for our main course. Along with the food we sipped on a flight of 6 different types of mezcal. It turns out that tequila is just one version of many types mezcal, and processed differently than the non tequila mezcals, which tend to have a more smoky flavor. Following is the chef’s description of one the mezcals we sampled:

“La Rosa Papalote – Dona Rosa’s mezcal tickles your tongue and quivers beneath your skin, like the all-encompassing romance of your youth. Like a Valentine sweetheart candy, and giddy as a schoolgirl, her punch leaves you as helpless as if you were hit by Cupid’s arrow.”

Wow! And the entire dinner, including tip was $40.

And before we close out this report, one more story from our dock neighbor, Bill.

Shortly before we arrived in La Paz the owner of a 45′ sailboat in Marina de La Paz sold it to a couple of nice young Canadian men. The papering of the sale was all done except for the recording and bank transfer, which was to be done on a Monday. The Canadians told the sellers that they needed to leave by Sunday to get to a party in Puerto Vallarta by midweek. The owners said OK as the paperwork would close the next day. The Canadians left with the boat…

You have probably figured it out by now. No money showed up on Monday and all the contact information for the buyers vanished into digital thin air. Bill is now helping the owners contact the authorities in Mexico and Polynesia to put them on the lookout for their pilfered boat.

Just landed in San Jose – see you again in a couple weeks when we head back to La Paz.

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