Following are Charley’s regular e-mail updates made during the November 2007 cruise he took from Marina Del Rey, California to Barre de Navidad, Mexico on Norm Pond’s Catalina 42, Tantara. Stu Conway accompanied Charley and Norm on this three week cruise during which covered 1300 nautical miles.
Departed from Marina Del Rey 9:15 (10/30 – 10:36 hours)
Headed for Catalina Island
12 knot breeze on the nose
Motoring with swell from abeam – our sea legs are being tested – maybe we will skip lunch!
Arrived Catalina (10/30 – 16:30 hours)
Tied up @SDYC (10/31 – 15:20 hours)
Arrived without incident
Fishing in Mexico (11/02 – 09:54 hours)
We are 100 mi south of border
Mostly motored all night
All systems still functional
Major dolphin show this morning
No mal de mar yet
Rigging fishing gear – hope to catch a big one for dinner
15 mi offshore and cell phones are still working
The stalwart crew
Caught One (11/02 – 11:14 hours)
First fish landed
Arrival at Cabo San Quentin (11/02 – 21:51 hours)
We arrived at Cabo San Quentin after motoring 157 miles from San Diego. We left at noon on Thursday and arrived at 6 pm on Friday after motoring thru the night. Overcast all the way and light winds so we did not sail much. On the way we caught two tuna (bluefin we guessed) We kept one for dinner ( it was great) and threw the other one back. We also saw lots of dolphins who played in our bow wave and jumped completely out of the water.
Cabo San Quintin is a large bay. We anchored out towards the front in a sheltered spot and are looking forward to a good night’s sleep before we set off for Turtle Bay which will require at least one overnight passage.
After dinner we were visited by a whale that must have been thirty or so feet long and covered all over with barnacles. He repeatedly surfaced next to boat and took big deep breaths. Quite a thrill!
Departing Cabo San Quintin (11/03 – 08:51 hours)
The whale stayed with us until 2am amorously rubbing and bumping Tantara’s hull. Norm tried to beat the whale off with the boathook, but to no avail. Fortunately, there was no damage to our trusty steed Tantara, other than a few barnacle scrapes to keep as a memento of nocturnal lovemaking with the whale of Cabo San Quintin. We pulled up anchor at 7:45 am to head for Cedros Island. Over and out until we next find cell phone coverage.
Sailing at Last! (11/03 – 11:49 hours)
Fair winds and a following sea – 15 knots from astern – still overcast but looks like it will burn thru soon
Sunday Morning Nov 4 (11/04 – 12:13 hours)
The wind picked up shortly after we left Cabo San Quintin and we finally turned off the diesel. The wind built all day and by sunset we were sailing in 20 – 30 knots from the rear quarter. Great sailing with a following sea and we reefed the sails to stay in control. The wind carried until 5 am this morning when we turned the diesel back on. We made Cedros Island by dawn and decided to continue on to Turtle Bay (Bahia Tortugas on your map) which is another 50 miles or so. We will have put another 181 miles on the Log once we complete this leg and 338 miles since leaving San Diego.
The weather has been mostly overcast. With only a little sun late in the day. The water temp has been quite cool since we left San Diego, 60 degrees. Over the last 24 hours it has come up to 65 degrees, an indication of things getting warmer as we move south.
No problems to report – no gashes, falls, mal de mer or other maladies – all systems continue to function.
Norm just caught another tuna and is now whipping up French toast in the galley.
Arrived in Turtle Bay 5pm Sunday (11/04 – 17:45 hours)
We arrived in Turtle Bay at 5 pm Sunday evening. We are anchored in Turtle bay with about a dozen boats heading south. We have already topped off our fuel tanks with help from thirteen-year-old Francisco from who we brought 20 gal of diesel. We plan to spend Monday in Turtle bay and then head south again Tuesday morning. It continues to be quite cool and we are all getting tired off the few warm clothes we brought.
A big event is that we are all taking showers tonight – first time since San Diego _ we are all pretty excited!
Bahia Tortugas – Nov 5 (11/05 – 15:37 hours)
We all turned in early on Sunday night and got a good night’s sleep. Stu made pancakes for breakfast and then we hitched a ride with Francisco on his panga (think 30 ft long rowboat with 140hp outboard) into town. We walked around town, the two cemeteries, and whatever else we could find to look at. Everyone is very friendly – the town is quite poor, dirt roads, small and not very well maintained homes. The economy we guessed is based on fishing <#1 industry>, selling diesel and other services to transiting vessels and a small army contingent. The process for landing fish was quite interesting. Pangas which had caught fish, would stop in the harbor, clean the fish and throw the remains in the harbor which would cause a feeding frenzy of birds. Then the fish would be offloaded into another panga with wheels attached to side. That panga would then be driven by its outboard up on the beach aided by the wheels. Then a four-wheel drive threw a line to the wheeled panga and pulled it the rest of the way up the beach (sorry ladies – there were no handsome groups of young muscular types pulling the boats up out of the surf). The fish were the taken to waiting truck full off ice to be weighed and shipped off to ravenous sushi lovers in Japan. If they only knew where those little raw morsels came from.
We ate a lunch of fish tacos washed down with dos cervesas each. During lunch we meet some other cruisers and some Mexicans who head driven down from southern California to visit relatives. All were delightful and a pleasure to talk to.
There are about 20 boats in the anchorage with quite a lot of activity of boats coming and going. There is one other Catalina 42, which managed to seize up its diesel during the trip down the coast. Apparently the crew said they had had enough of the voyage in Turtle Bay and split for home. The captain was trying to arrange a tow back to San Diego – major bummer!
We are now back on the boat and tomorrow morning plan to head for Bahia Santa Maria, which is about 200 miles down the coast. This will be an overnight passage and we should arrive late Wed. On Thursday we plan to do “The Hike”. For those of you that have seen my screen saver, this is the hike up a 1300 ft palisade with a gorgeous view of Bahia Santa Maria.
We don’t expect to have cell phone coverage again until we get to Cabo San Lucas this weekend – so there will not be any more updates for a few days.
Log of Tantara November 6 (11/07 – 11:59 hours)
Monday night we had spaghetti and used our Trader Joes buffalo burgers for the meat sauce. Another delicious dinner. We hit the sack at 7:30 (hey it got dark at 5:00 pm!)
We departed Turtle Bay at 6 am. 15 – 20 knot breeze from behind so we set the sails right away. Water temp is up to 70 degrees and the weather is finally starting to warm up. We are all in shorts and down to only one or two layers.
Shortly after we set sail the autopilot crapped out. Norm dove into the lazarette and after a few choice words and the snipping of a few wires he removed the autopilot for closer examination. He took the beast down below, disassembled it, and found nothing obvious wrong. Reassembly was quite a challenge, as it required a manufacturing jig we clearly did not have. After numerous tries we got the autopilot back together and Norm dove back into the lazarette to reinstall it. Having found nothing wrong and repaired nothing the autopilot now worked like a charm.
We have about 200 miles to go dead downwind so we winged the jib out on the whisker pole and Tantara is running downwind under autopilot. Life is good.
Stu baked some muffins from the mix Julie sent along – they were fantastic.
Life is no longer good – the autopilot crapped out again. Norm dove back into the lazarette armed with voltmeter, wirecutters, and other instruments of investigation. After wiggling lots of wires and unwrapping electrical tape wrapped connections hidden in dark alcoves of the lazarette – Norm found it – a broken wire that was sometimes connected and sometimes not!
The wind died late in the afternoon and we motored until 5am in the morning. The weather continues to get warmer and the skies clearer. The night watch was pleasant with mild temp and a clear starlit sky.
As I sign off for today’s report we are sailing wing and wing – 87 miles from bahia santa maria and about 50 miles offshore – 72 degree water temp
Bahia Santa Maria (11/09 – 10:04 hours)
We anchored at BSM at 11:45 pm Wed night. We had a good sail all day and evening with 20+ knot winds and following seas of 7 – 8 ft height (wave height estimates certified by our resident circumnavigator, Stu). We made good time even though we were subjected to a good bit of rocking and rolling.
Stu caught what we guessed was a Skipjack which we ate for lunch along with rice. The ladies would have been proud of us.
The autopilot served without fail since Norm fixed the broken wire so we have declared it repaired.
We woke up to strong winds in the anchorage – roughly 25 knots – which make launching the dinghy, landing thru the surf and hiking to the top of a high exposed mountain (“The Hike”) problematic. So for now we are resting, cleaning up, doing boat chores and hoping for the wind to die down.
Arrived Cabo San Lucas 11/10 – 21:09 hours)
We were able to sail the entire distance from Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas with strong to very strong winds.
When we got to within 25 miles of Cabo San Lucas we sailed thru a fleet of at least 50 sport fishing boats, who must have decided that that one particular spot was the only place fish could be caught. We also saw a large billfish repeatedly jumping out of the water – there must have been some even bigger fish trying to eat him.
We arrived at Cabo San Lucas at 1 pm Saturday, a total of 733 miles traveled, since San Diego. We spent the afternoon in Cabo provisioning – getting diesel, ice, water, and groceries. Much of the Ha Ha fleet is still here and we are anchored with around 100 boats in the outer harbor.
Tonight we will have dinner at Pancho’s Restarant that will cook and serve the yellow fin tuna Norm caught yesterday. This is the same place we went to four years ago so we are looking forward to a feast. The fishing has been very good, with the last fish getting hooked within minutes of throwing the line in.
Cabo is heavily commercialized to cater to fisherman and tourists. There are 100’s and 100’s of sport fishing boats in the harbor. The number of sport fishing boats is only exceeded by pelicans who are all over and seem to look you in the eye as you go by, and by a strange breed (or perhaps typical breed?) of American tourists that are periodically disgorged by cruise ships.
Our plan is to see if we can get our boat and immigration paperwork taken care of tomorrow morning (good luck on Sunday) and then depart for Isla Isabella, which is an uninhabited island in the middle of the Sea of Cortez and is the Mexican equivalent of the Galapagos – a place favored by National Geographic and Jacque Cousteau. If we can’t get the paperwork done tomorrow, then we will leave anyway and probably do it in Puerto Vallarta.
Dolphins on Night Watch (11/14 – 01:45 hours)
It is 10 pm and I am standing my watch from 9 – midnight. The wind is 8-10 knots and we are sailing about 3 knots on a broad reach. The sea is calm and Tantara is gracefully gliding thru the sea. I can periodically hear breathing noises, which it turns out are from a school of dolphins that are escorting Tantara on her way. I can also see flashes of light each time the dolphins come up for air. The flashes are quite bright and caused by phosphorescence when the dolpins break the surface for air. As I look more carefully I can see the dolphins are also causing the water to fluoresce as they swim underwater – so you can actually see the dolphins as they swim underwater on this completely dark night. This went on for about an hour until the wind died and I turned on the diesel – after which there was too much commotion and noise to be able to tell if they were still there.
Kind of keeps you from getting too bored on these lonely night watches.
In Transit to Isla Isabella (11/14 – 01:46 hours)
We left Cabo San Lucas on Sunday morning after determining that it was not possible to complete our paperwork in Cabo on Sunday.
Isla Isabella is 235 miles to the east and a challenging anchorage so we want to arrive in daylight. Our plan is to motor thru Sun and Mon night and arrive first thing Tues morning – spend Tues at Isla Isabella – leave at the end of the day and sail overnight to Puerto Viarta and get our paperwork completed on Wed . Then we will have until Monday to work our way down the last 150 miles or so to Barre de Navidad.
We had very little wind and motored most of the way to Isla Isabella. This made for a relaxing voyage with balmy weather, clear skies and easy navigation an boat handling. We did lots of things during this passage including:
Sighting large sea turtles swimming in ocean at least 50 miles from land causing us to speculate how they gathered food since fish are fast and they are slowly
Monday afternoon we were completely becalmed so we turned the engine off and jumped in for a swim. We used Joy dishwashing soap to scrub up which works pretty well in saltwater. The water was very clear and a beautiful deep blue color. The wind stayed light so we barbequed steaks that night.
Attended to a number of boat maintenance projects.
Had a man overboard drill when we lost a bucket over the side when the handle broke off as we were scooping up water for boat projects.
Had a lot of visits from a brown type of sea gull, which like to circle the mast – one of them landed on our mast top wind vane and rode with us for a while.
Found a squid on the deck
Have seen lots of frigate birds that are graceful long distance fliers. They have long slender bat like wings and are quite beautiful. They fish by dive bombing the water and the pulling up just before they hit water and pecking for fish with their beak. When they do this they appear to levitate over the ocean surface.
No luck fishing despite trying out a multitude of lures. Norm’s goal is to catch a dorado.
We continue to eat well and all crew are healthy and uninjured. The thought of Norm using his skin stapler on us causes us to be extra careful.
Life is good.
Isla Isabella (11/14 – 14:17 hours)
We were about 10 miles from Isla Isabel when the sun came out. Norm thrw out the fishing line and we quickly had a small tuna on. We threw the line back in and in short order we had a dorado on. The dorado’s coloring is amazing and constantly changing from one bright color to another. This guy was about 4 ft long and 20 -25 pounds. He put up quite a fight and we were lucky to get him landed on the boat.
Wow! We feel like we just went to Jurassic Park. Isla Isabella is teeming with frigates, boobies and iguanas. The sky is constantly filled with frigates and boobies. They own the island and it is hard to take a step without looking one of them in the eye. A real National Geographic experience.
The island itself is volcanic with amazing rock formations. The beach where we landed the dinghy was a combination of lava and coral pebbles. We climbed up one of the cliffs thru a booby nesting area – They were all quite tame and did not seem to be bothered by us – there were so many you had to careful with every step not to get too close.
There was a fishermen’s camp with very primitive living conditions and quite a few panga’s and fisherman. They were all friendly and told Stu they caught 1000 pounds of fish a day.
After our morning exploration we went back to the boat for a swim and then feasted on Dorado fillets for lunch. We still have half of the Dorado left for tomorrow. We departed in the late afternoon for Puerto Vallarta, about 85 miles away. We will sail all night and expect to be in PV by around 10 am Wed morning.
On the way out we motored over to the other anchorage to offer our amberjack to the crew of the Nanny O’Shea. We had a little trouble raising them as they seemed to be below with the air conditioning on. They declined the fish as they did not want to deal with the mess of fresh fish. I guess they planned to pull something out of the freezer.
We’re in Puerto Vallarta…(11/14 – 09:56 hours)
After spending a day at Isla Isabella, we sailed overnight here to PV, arriving @9:30 am. Stu just dropped off our jib for a quick luff-tape repair, while we wait for Juan, the ‘paper man’, to clear boat and crew into Mexico. h2o temp. Is 84°f; air mid 90’s. Sometime after 2:00, we hope to depart towards Barra, @160 nm. The plan is to daysail, gunkholing along the way.
A Palapa in Yelapa…. (11/14 – 20:43 hours)
The old Mexican saying goes as follows:
A palapa in Yelapa
Is better than a condo in Redondo!
More on Yelapa later
We sailed and motored all night Tues and arrived at Puerto Vallarta at 10 am. We filled up with diesel and tracked down a “paper man” to process our legal paperwork to enter Mexico and process our passports. Juan came to our assistance and made the necessary trips to the bank, the port captain and immigration at the airport and had us cleared into Mexico by 4 pm. In the interim we tried to get a slip for the day while we waited. However no luck since the marina was full for a billfish tournament. Having nowhere to go we just pulled into an empty slip figuring that we would move if the rightful owner came. They never did. While we were in PV we pulled the jib off and took it to the local North Sails loft to have some minor damage repaired. They had the sail done for us well before the paperman was done.
We headed for Yelapa at 4 pm. Yelapa is 15 miles away so we were concerned about trying to anchor after it got dark. Yelapa is a very challenging anchorage with most of it too deep to anchor in and the only good areas already taken by pangas. We got there shortly after sunset and determined that it would have been near impossible to anchor there in the fading light. Fortunately two young fisherman came by and offered us one of their panga moorings for 200 pesos (20 dollars) which we accepted in an instant and were securely tied up 2 minutes later.
Yelapa is Southwest from PV and located in a densely wooded and remote area at the southwest corner of Banderas Bay. It is a small bay with homes built up the mountainsides. Think Italy rather than Mexico. It is very neat and not what we expected. There are some really great hotel rooms perched up the mountainside and a nice looking restaurant on the beach.
We are all looking forward to a peaceful night of sleep at anchor as we have been underway 4 of the last 5 nights.
Tomorrow we will depart for Chamela, which is 84 miles down the coast. Charley’s ex neighbors who went cruising are there and we are planning to have dinner with them on Fri night.
Yelapa To Chamela (11/15 – 17:58 hours)
We slept in Thursday morning, had breakfast on the boat, and got a ride on panga into the beach at Yelapa. We wandered around for a couple hours, which was very interesting. There are no cars as there is apparently no road to Yelapa. There is a ferry service to Puerto Vallarta, basically a panga with seats for 10 or 15 folks. We saw one all terrain vehicle and a few folks riding burros and horses. As we started to walk around town we realized that a river runs thru the middle of town and we had to find a shallow spot to wade across to the other side. We learned that about 500 folks live in Yelapa. The economy seems to be based on tourism and fishing. We also saw papayas, mangos, coconuts and bananas growing. We heard that the iguanas ate all the tomato plants. As usual everyone was friendly and helpful.
We dropped our mooring at 10:30 and set sail for Chamela, about 85 miles away. It is currently 8 pm and we have about 30 miles to go. We have had good breezes today. At one point when we had a good gust Charley jibed and managed to blow up the mainsheet traveler. Norm jury-rigged it without too much trouble. Stu is now about 3/4’s done with polishing all the stainless steel on Tantara.
Chamela (11/16 – 20:22 hours)
We anchored in Chamela at 1 am on Friday morning. Another fine job by our fearless captain of navigating past reefs and rocks into a safe anchorage in the dark of night.
After sleeping in Friday morning Charley raised Tiffany and Jim Tindle on the Tayana 48, Blue Plains Drifter, who were anchored close by. The Tindles own the house next door to Charley and Mitzie in the Santa Cruz mountains. The Eddys took the Tindles sailing for the fist time a few years ago. Jim and Tiffany got all excited, took sailing lessons, and bought their boat in Mexico last year. They have been cruising in Mexico since then with a base in Puerto Vallarta. This March they plan to take off for the Marquesas and eventually New Zealand. We visited with them on their boat and had dinner with them in a beachfront palapa. It was great to see them and get caught up with their activities over the last year. Their website is blueplainsdrifter.com.
After we visited with Tiffany and Jim in the morning we took the dinghy into the beach and walked around town. It looks like a lot of these little Mexican towns in that half the houses are in various states of disrepair and decay and the other half (actually a lot less than half) have some kind of building project going on. Stu asked where he could get a haircut – a cell phone was whipped out by the man Stu asked – who found a nice lady to cut Stu’s hair across the street – all for the princely sum of $3.
While Stu was getting shorn, Charley talked to a 92 year old from Santa Fe and his son, who lived in Mexico and was escorting him around. A delightful pair, who had been on the bus south from Puerto Vallerta, but the bus driver drove like a maniac, which made the ride too bumpy and was making the 92 year old car sick. So they stopped and got a room and were sitting outside the hotel watching the day go by when we came by. The 92 year old was an old sailor and had checked out all the boats in the anchorage and wanted to know which one we were on. We chatted for some time on a wide variety of topics.
Then we walked back to the beach to have lunch. As we were trying to decide which restaurant to eat at, a panga fisherman came by with a crate full of fish and told us, in perfect English, where we should eat. So we sat down there and after a while the Panga fisherman came by to wait on our table. We asked him how he had learned such good English – He said he was deported from the US two months ago. “Tony” had lived in the US since 1983 and had been a sheet rock installer in Seattle for the last 10 years. The restaurant belonged to his aunt and he was making the best of things. He did not appear to be at all bitter, just a hard working guy. Tony was very talkative and we had a nice chat with him.
Tomorrow we plan to explore some other areas within Chemala bay and head to Carayes for the next night.
Chemala to Careyes (11/17 – 20:05 hours)
We slept in again and had french toast and coffee for breakfast. We then departed for Isla Colorado, which is a small uninhabited island within Chemala Bay. Norm anchored in another challenging spot and then we all jumped in and swam to a small deserted beach – quite beautiful and we had it all to ourselves.
We then pulled up anchor and headed to Paraiso, which is another very challenging anchorage that requires sailing into the coast between a number of rock outcroppings that are quite close together. Stu and Charley were both pleased not to be steering. However, our intrepid captain threaded the needle again and got us to just the right spot to anchor. Paraiso is a small little bay with two beaches – one is private with a lovely estate spreading out in front of the beach. The second beach is not private so after we had lunch we jumped in again and checked out this remote beach, which we again had all to ourselves. The attached picture is of this beach.
We then departed for Careyas, which is another challenging anchorage that is the most beautiful one we have seen so far. Careyes has three beaches, one in front of one of the greatest looking hotels I have ever seen, one in front of a restaurant and thatched roof rooms on the beach (that Charley and Mitzie stayed at about 20 years ago) and one beach in front of a club med that has been defunct since Charley and Mitzie were there and is now a wildlife preserve. Careyes also has numerous very large mansions that are built on the cliffs surrounding the bay, all in a variety of bright pastel colors, which are quite striking. One of the mansions had a long ropewalk that connected it to an offshore island. We saw that a number of steadying guys had been installed – so we guessed it must be pretty exciting to make the passage across the ropewalk.
We anchored in front of the restaurant and then dinghied into the beach. We made reservations for dinner and then wandered around the hotel grounds which are spectacular with the worlds nicest looking pool, a great selection of contrasting pastel colors and amazing stone work and landscaping. The architect that designed this place really had it together. However, just like the last time Mitzie and Charley were here and the last time Norm And Natalie were here, the hotel is virtually empty.
We had great dinner but on the way in and out we noticed that the dinghy was delaminating and starting to take on a lot of water. Norm tried duct tape, but it did not do well in saltwater. Norm will try gluing it all back together tomorrow.
Tomorrow we are off for Tenacatita Bay and the “jungle cruise” through a large mangrove swamp, which Charley and Stu plan to attempt in Norm’s inflatable kayak.
Careyas to Bara de Navidad (11/20 – 10:40 hours)
Yikes!! Tourista has struck Stu and laid him low! He is now good for nothing except lying in his bunk. This is first time I have seen the ever-cheery Stu, not so cheery – Perhaps the steady diet of ceviche was more than his iron constitution could stand.
Before we took off for Tenacatita Bay Norm did battle again with the leaking dinghy floor. He parceled out his diminishing supply of dinghy glue and patches to add to the patchwork of repairs he has already made to the delaminating dinghy floor.
We caught three small tuna on the way to Tenacatita, kept one for dinner and threw the other two back. Charley got the duty to land and clean the fish this time. This involves climbing over the stern pulpit to the stern scoop, grabbing the fishing line to pull the fish out of the water, grabbing the fish by the tail, removing the fishhook from the fish’s mouth, and then cleaning him by slitting his stomach to remove the entrails. This would not be too bad except that the fish is still alive, quite strong, and not too happy about being hooked. Norm uses the fisherman method, which is to go through all these steps and just let the fish die when it dies. Charley, knowing better, decided to quickly put the fish out of his misery with a quick hammer blow to head. Charley said “get me the hammer”. Norm,with a knowing look, hands Charley the hammer and steps back to a safe distance. Charley swings a mighty blow, which causes an eruption of fish blood, all over the boat and all over Charley’s body and face. Unfortunately the fish was no less dead after the blow so nothing was accomplished and Charley reverted to Norm’s recommended technique.
After the dinghy repairs were complete Charley and Norm took off for Tenacatita Bay, about a twenty-mile trip. We arrived in the early afternoon and dropped the hook in company with a half dozen other cruisers. Tenacatita is a large bay with one protected corner where cruisers like to congregate. We were immediately greeted by a very friendly Lee and Nancy who motored over in their dinghy from their Peterson 44. The most interesting thing about them was that they had absolutely no plans other the eventually going to Zijuatenao to anchor out. To us Sillicon Valley overacheiver types this concept of no plan was a little hard to take in.
Tenacatita bay cruisers are well organized. There is a cruiser net on VHF channel 22 every morning at 9:30 where you can get updated on the local cruiser news – a weekly pot luck in dinghies – bocci ball on the beach – and a daily swim to the beach – kind of like a floating trailer park for yachties.
Norn and Charley launched the dinghy again to test out Norm’s repairs by driving up a river inlet across a shallow entrance bar. This trip was a complete dinghy experience. First we determined that the dinghy floor was still leaking. We successfully passed the bar coming in, after getting out a few times to push the dinghy through shallow spots. Once we got into deep water in the river Norm revved up the 8 hp Nissan to get the dinghy up on a plane and see if we could drain the water out thru the stern plug. This was working well until we found another shallow spot and came to an abrupt stop as the Nissan ate sand. The trusty Nissan was not phased a bit so we continued our journey upstream. We saw a few birds and turned around after a while and headed back downstream for the bar giving access back to the ocean. We did well until we took a shortcut across the bar, which was littered with prop eating rocks. Norm did an admirable job missing all the rocks, but unfortunately the attention spent on the rocks was attention lost on the incoming surf. We hit the incoming breaker head on, suffered a head to toe soaking and had a good laugh.
Norm was determined to fix the leaking dinghy so he made one more effort to patch the leaking floor.
That night we were visited by a number of dolphins in the anchorage. One of there favorite activities was rubbing our anchor line with their bodies. We would see the anchor line start jumping all around and then a dolphin would emerge by the bow.
Double Yikes! We got up in the morning and now Charley has tourista too. Stu is a little better and we set off for Barre de Navida which was only 12 miles. We got there about noon, Norm and Stu cleaned up the boat and Charley slept all day.
Charley was well enough to catch his flight back to KC the following day, but will probably look a bit bedraggled when he arrives.
Over and Out